Trousers construction



Jan 27, 1953 Q. LEWIS TROUSERS CONSTRUCTION 2 SHEETS-SHEET 1 Filed July 23, 1949 INVENTOR. DAVID LEWIS Jan. 27, 1953 D. LEWIS TROUSERS CONSTRUCTION 2 SHEETS-SHEET 2 Filed July 23, 1949 INVENTOR; DAVID LEWIS llllllllllllllll Il\\lllt nu nu! No fir? A 7'7'OEN Y Patented Jan. 27, 1953 TROUSERS CONSTRUCTION David Lewis, Forest Hills, N. Y., assignor to David Lewis. Mac Lewis and Arthur P. Lindsay, doing business under the firm name and style of Esquire Sportswear Company, New York. N. Y.

Application July 23, 1949, Serial No. 106.369

4 Claims.

This invention relates to trousers construction.

Ordinarily, in the business of merchandising trousers, it is necessary to carry in stock trousers of various sizes, dilierentiated from each other by small dinerences in girth measurements. In addition to storage space to accommodate such stock, and the fact that inventory cannot always match varying demands, large amounts of capital are tied up in goods which are not readily sold. In ddition, it can readily be understood that these differences between the sizes of garments held in stock do not conform with the relative degree of accuracy in measurements effected by a custom tailor when he fits the trousers directly upon his model, the customer for the trousers.

It is an object of the invention to provide a garment or the type indicated, the waist of which is capable of adjustment to such degree that a single pair of trousers may readily and accurately be accommodated to girths varying within fairly broad limits.

It has been found desirable to position the means for adjusting at a point where the hands of the wearer are most effective for making the adjustment. Thus, it becomes necessary that the trousers be provided with a break in the waistband along what is the usual side seam.

The side pockets usually provided in such trousers constructions are located exactly at this position; thus, it becomes necessary to provide for the adjustment without eliminating the pocket structure.

It is an object of the invention to provide structure for a garment of the type indicated which includes means for varying the girth of a garment within limits, in order to accommodate the garment to waists of wearers of various requirements, wherein such garment has the usual side pockets, and the varying means are incorporated into the structure in such manner that the pocket structure may remain an integral part of the extendable waist structure.

It is an object of the invention to provide a structure for a garment wherein the elements making up the side pockets provide a tie between the terminal edges of portions of the garment which are adjustably overlapped for use in determining the girth of the garment, and

wherein effecting this adjustment of the girth of the garment does not affect the function of the elements of the pocket.

It is an object of the invention to provide, in a garment of this type, wherein there are means conjunction with a garment having a waistband the length of which is adJustable in the manner hereinbeiore mentioned, it is an ob ect of the invention to provide means whereby the garment, at its waist, responds elastically to increase or decrease in girth measurements.

Other obyects of the invention will be set forth hereinafter, or will be apparent from the description and the drawings, in which is illustrated an embodiment exemplifying the invention.

The invention, however, is not intended to be restricted to any particular construction, or any particular arrangement of parts, or any particular application of any such construction or arrangement of parts, or any specific method of operation or use, or any of the various details thereof, even Where specifically shown and described herein, as the same may be modified in various articulars, or may be applied in many varied relations, without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention, of which the exemplifying embodiment, herein shown and described, is intended only to be illustrative, and only for the purpose of complying with the requirements of the statutes for disclosure of an operative embodiment, but not to show all the various forms and modifications in which the invention might be embodied.

On the drawings, in which the same reference characters refer to the same parts throughout, and in which is disclosed such a practical construction,

Fig. l is a perspective view of a pair of trousers, showing the features of the invention, the leg portions being broken away, the trousers being turned slightly from the normal position, in order to illustrate the feature of the adjustment of the trousers at the side seam and pocket;

Fig. 2 is a view, similar to Fig. 1, showing the action of a pull on the trousers at the waist;

Fig. 3 is a view, to enlarged scale, of the portion of the trousers, including the portion to show the features of the invention, looking at the outside face, the trousers being shown expanded at one side edge, and closed at the other;

Fig. 4 is a view, similar to Fig. 3, showing the trousers in the same position but at the inside face thereof;

Fig. 5 is a plan view of the trousers in the form shown in Fig. 3;

Fig. 6 is a horizontal, transverse cross-sectional view, of a detail of the trousers construction, and to enlarged scale, as seen from the line 6-6 of Fig. 4;

Fig. 7 is a vertical, transverse cross-sectional view, of a detail of the trousers construction, taken on the line |'l of Fig. 4;

Fig. 8 is a view similar to. Fig. 6, taken onthe line 8-8 of Fi 4;

Fig. 9 is a horizontal tranverse cross-sectional view, to smaller scale than Fig. 6, taken on theline 9-9 of Fig. 4;

Fig. 10 is a transverse cross-sectional View, taken on the line |DI0 of Fig. 3, and to'enlarged scale, illustrating certain details of an adjusting device; and

Fig. 11 is a detail, cross-sectional view, taken horizontally of Fig. 3 on the line Il-l l.

On the drawings. are illustrated a pair of trousers 10 which may be constructed in any desired manner. In the construction. shown, a pair of back panels l2 and M are shown united in the usual manner, as, for. instance, by means of a seam l6. Panels l2, I4, 24 and26have lower extremities which take. the form necessary to produce the legsections of the garment, when the respective sections I2 and I4 are seamed to panels 24 and 26 below fiy l8. Since, however, the structure here to. be described is concerned more with the body. of. the trousers from the crotch to and including the. waistband, no detail description is given here of. the manner in which these panels are united with each other at and below the crotch.

At their outside edges and '22, front panels 24 and 26 are united withedges 28 and 30 of panels l2 and [4, up to the positionwhere pockets 32 and 34 are tobe formed, by meansof seams 36 and 38, which terminate at points 40 and 42.

From points 40 and 42 up to. waistband 44, each of edges20 and 22 hasa placket 46 suitably seamed thereto to be disposedsubstantially flat against the inner face of therespective panel 24 or 26. Each of panels. l2 and I4 has a placket 48 secured to its. respective edge 28 or 30 from the respective point 40 or 42 up. to the waistband. Placket 48 is. secured so: as. to extend substantially in the .same. plane as its respective panel l2 or l4. Thus, panels. l2.and I4, at plackets 48, will be overlapped by panels 24 and '26.

A pocket member 58 is. made up to be assembled at the opening. beyond seams 36 and 38 above points 40 and 42. In this construction, member 50 is assembled by association with the associated plackets 46 and 48. Pocket member 59 may be formed of a single piece of material cut and folded upon itself to provide two portions 52 and 54 (Fig. 9) so that edges of the portions, thus brought into juxtaposition, may be stitched together, up to a position 56 where they are to be assembled with plackets 46 and 48. One portion 52, above position 56, is placed upon and stitched to placket 48 at its edges. The other portion 54, above position 56, is secured in similar manner to placket 46. A section 58 of portion. 52 and a small piece of portion 54 are left free between the ends of the portions secured to plackets 46 and 48.

Waistband 44 may be constructed in any preferred manner; in the case shown, however, since it is desired that a garment of this type be capable of being worn without a belt, the waistband may be formed by securing, at the top edge of panels l2 and I4, 24 and 46, an inner band lining strip 60 which may include a layer 62 including lines 640i interwoven rubber or similar threads. Lines 64 positively project from the surface of layer 62, and extend toward and engage against the under clothing of the wearer. In securing strip 60 to the panels, the same stitching may be. utilized to engage the upper edges of portions 52 and 54, or separate stitching may be utilized for securing the upper edges of portions 52 and 54 to their respective base materials. The band may be in several lengths, as, for instance, each of panels I2 and [4 may have a separate length, the lengths being substantially coterminous with the lengths of the upper edges of the panels; each of panels 24 and 26 likewise will have a separate length; these lengths, however, would be covered at their ends by the respective plackets. Panels 24 and 28 terminate, together with their lengths, at fly l8. The two portions of the fly may be provided with the usual means for securing them, or to permit their separation.

Together with each of plackets 48 and the associated length of strip 66, at the edge of the placket, a section 65- of elastic webbing may be anchored. A short distance toward fly I 8, in length 68,- a slot 10 may be provided. Through this slot section 66 extends into the passage provided between the respective panel and length 88, to be anchored to the panel by the stitching that secures the lining strips 12 and 14 in place for the fly. Sections 66 thus serve to keep plackets 46 and 48 in the overlapped relation, concealing the opening, and, at the same time, permitting access to pockets 32 and 34, as the case may be.

Carried at the free edge 16 formed by the construction of each of front panels 24 and 26 is a cloth loop 1 8 by which is retained a metallic loop 88 from which extends, in this case, a metallic body 82, such as shown in the patentsto Statham, Nos. 1,838,463 and 1,887,826, granted December 29, 1931, and November 15, 1932. This body is channel shaped to provide a recess 84 wide enough and shaped t define ways which may be slid easily-over a raised member 88, secured upon placket 48 and the respective back panels I2-or [4 to which it is secured through a slot 90 provided for that purpose.

Body 82 has a pair of ears 92 providing a pivotal mounting for a-tab 96. Tab 96 has a tongue 88 at its end, so that, when tab 98 is in the position shown in Figs. 6 and 11, resting down against body 82, tongue 98 is forced into the space between a pair of elements I00 of member 88. When tab 96 is raised, the tongue is removed from that position. In the first position, the parts are locked against relative movement; in the second position, the members are free to move relatively to each other. In fact, body 82 may be moved along member 88 and then beyond end member I62, so thatbody 82 may be separated completely from association with member 88; then plackets 45 and 43 are no longer overlapped, which makes it possible to remove the trousers from the body without utilizing a fly opening, making a structure particularly adaptable for wear by women. A stop. I 64 at the other end of member 88 is made large enough to prevent body 82 from moving so as to separate under the normal tension at the waistband as the trousers are worn.

For certain purposes, any device which permits adjustment of the relative overlap of plackets 46 and 48, within limits, and holds that adjustment, as, for instance, the usual tab and toothed loop, may be used in a structure such as that shown; it has been found more desirable for some purposes to use the adjusting means here shown. In this adjusting means, a tape I06 has a plurality of wire members or elements I secured in position thereto and forming a hump. The manner of securing elements I00 is t hump the tape to provide channels for the reception of walls H0 of body 82. Tape I06 may be sewed in slot 90, formed in the fabric of the garment, in any desired manner, so that the line of elements I00 will be in position to follow the line of the waistband, and in line with body 82 to be received thereover.

Thus, when the garment has been completed,

the wearer, after donning the trousers, merely closes the fly, places body 82 so that it seats over members I06, with walls H0 encompassing the members. Then, by slipping the body to the position desired for proper adjustment, and moving tab 96 to position to bring tongue 98 into engagement between a pair of members I00, the waistband will be adjusted to the dimensions of the waist of the wearer. This adjustment will be made against the resilient action of section (56. At the same time, pockets 32 and 34 remain undisturbed, regardless of the degree of adjustment effected, the pocket material straddling between the two plackets 4B and 48, and retaining their function without variation, regardless of the adjusted relation between the plackets.

As shown in Figs. 1, 6, 8, and 9, and the front portion of Fig. 2, the left hand portion of Fig. 3, and the right hand portions of Figs. 4 and 5, the overlapped portions are closed so that only what appears to be a seam line is presented. In the rear portion of Fig. 2, the right hand side of Fig. 3, and the left hand port-ions of Figs. 4 and 5, the trousers have been opened up at the waistband, showing a portion of placket 46.

Many other changes could be effected in the particular construction, and in the methods of use and construction, and in specific details thereof, hereinbefore set forth, without substantially departing from the invention defined in the claims, the specific description being merely of an embodiment capable of illustrating certain principles of the invention.

What is claimed as new and useful is:

1. A construction for trousers, including a waist portion for encircling the waist of a wearer, the waist portion comprising a pair of distinct outer and inner panels dimensioned to terminate at substantially the same vertical level and each terminating in a free top edge at the same vertical level, the panels having a waistband curtain secured thereto immediately at the free top edges thereof, the edges of the panels being secured together up to a position short of said free top edges and being free above said position to provide free side edges for the panels the panels being disposed above said position so that the outer panel has an overlap extending over the inner panel, an elastic member secured to the outer panel and positioned between the outer panel and the curtain and extending from between the curtain and the outer panel through an opening in the curtain to engage the free side edge of said inner panel, the overlap extending over and beyond the free side edge of the inner panel, said overlap carrying at its free side edge a section of an adjusting device, the other section of the adjusting device being disposed on the outer face of the inner panel and at least in part concealed by the overlap, the sections being constructed for ready separation and engagement, the sections being engageable to move relatively to each other to adjust the degree to which the panels may separate, the sections providing means for fixing them in an adjusted position to prevent separation of the panels while permitting limited movement of the panels over each other under control of the elastic member.

2. A construction for trousers, including at waist portion for encircling the waist of a wearer, the waist portion comprising a pair of distinct outer and inner panels dimensioned to terminate at substantially the same vertical level and each terminating in a free top edge at the same vertical level, the panels having a waistband curtain secured thereto immediately at the free top edges thereof, the edges of the panel being secured together up to a position short of said free top edges and being free above said position to provide free side edges for the panels, the panels being disposed above said position so that the outer panel has an overlap extending over the inner panel, an elastic member secured to the outer panel and positioned between the outer panel and said curtain and extending from between the curtain and said outer panel through an opening in the curtain to engage the free side edge of said inner panel, the overlap extending over and beyond the free side edge of the inner panel and there carrying a section of an adjusting device, the other section of the adjusting device being disposed on the outer face of the inner panel and at least in part concealed by the overlap, the sections being constructed for ready separation and engagement, the sections being engageable to move relatively to each other to adjust the degree to which the panels may separate, the sections providing means for fixing them in an adjusted position to prevent separation of the panels while permitting limited movement of the panels over each other under control of the elastic member; and a pocket member, the pocket member having a pair of walls closed together to form a receptacle, portions of the walls being left free to provide free top edges and a pair of side edges at an opening for entry to the receptacle, the pocket wall side edges being secured to the panels at their overlapped faces to a position below the extent of the elastic member and being movable with the respective panels.

3. A construction for trousers, including a waist portion for encircling the waist of a wearer, the waist portion comprising a pair of distinct outer and inner panels dimensioned to terminate at substantially the same vertical level and each terminating in a free top edge at the same vertical level, the panels having a waistband curtain secured thereto immediately at the free top edges thereof, the edges of the panels being secured together up to a position short of said free top edges and being free above said position to provide free side edges for the panels, the panels being disposed above said position so that the outer panel has an overlap extending over the inner panel, an elastic member secured to the outer panel at the inner side thereof at a position removed from the overlap and positioned between the outer panel and said curtain and extending from between the curtain and said outer panel through an opening in the curtain to en- '7 gage the free side edge of said inner panel, the overlap extending over and beyond th free side edge of the inner panel, said overlap carrying at its free side edge asection of an adjusting device, the other section of the adjusting device being disposed on the outer face of the inner panel and at least in part concealed by the overlap, the sections being constructed for ready separation and engagement, the sections being engageable to move relatively to each other to adjust the degree to which the panels may separate, the sections providing means for fixing them in an adjusted position to prevent separation of the panels while permitting limited movement of the panels over each other under control of the elastic member; and a pocket member, the pocket member having a pair of walls closed together to form a receptacle, portions of the walls being left free to provide free top edges and a pair of side edges at an opening for entry to the receptacle, one of the pocket wall side edges being secured to the free side edge of the inner panel below the extent of the elastic member and the other pocket side wall edge being secured to the inner face of the outer panel below the extent of the elastic member with the free top edges of the pocket walls disposed therebetween below the extent of the elastic member.

4. A construction for trousers, including a Waist portion for encircling the waist of a wearer, the waist portion comprising a pair of distinct outer and inner panels dimensioned to terminate at substantially the same vertical level and each terminating in a free top edge at the same vertical level, the panels having a waistband curtain secured thereto immediately at the free top edges thereof, the edges of the panels being secured together up to a position short of said free top edges and being free above said position to provide free side edges for the panels, the panels being disposed above said position so that the outer panel has an overlap extending over the inner. panel, an elastic member secured to the outer panel at the inner side thereof and positioned between the outer panel and said curtain and extending from between the curtain and said outer panel through an opening in the curtain to engage the free side edge of said inner panel, the overlap extending over and beyond the free side edge of the inner panel and carrying at its free side edge an engaging member, a plurality of spaced bar-like members fixed on the outer face of the inner panel and at least in part concealed by the overlap, the bar-like members being disposed in substantially parallel relationship and each being shaped to provide a flat top portion and inwardly bent side walls, the engaging member having a shape complementary to that of the bar-like members and providing a slot for passage of the inwardly bent side walls so that the engaging member may be assembled over and be slid relatively to the bar-like members, and a pivoted finger associated with the engaging member to fix the engaging member in position with relation to the bar-like members to prevent separation of the panels while permitting limited movement of the panels over each other under control of the elastic member.

DAVID LEWIS.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file of this patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 1,705,562 Fretz et a1. Mar. 19, 1929 1,713,121 Goodman May 14, 1929 1,959,486 Matheson et a1 May 22, 1934 2,077,002 Moyer et al. Apr. 13, 1937 2,126,122 Mainzer Aug. 9, 1938 2,236,693 Newman Apr. 1, 1941 2,438,933 Markin Apr. 6, 1948 2,526,013 Fanning Oct. 24, 1950 

